All the questions regarding plan clarifications, materials used, building time,
etc will be here.
|How long should the saw slit be in the Bottom Plank
|It will vary depending on how stiff the material you use is.
Start at 26 and cut it an inch longer until the pieces bend up without splitting.
|There are 2 measurements shown on the plans, one at 14 inches and one at 16 inches.
This figure will actually vary depending on your outboard.
One way to determine the Transom height is to measure from the top of the
Motor Mount (where it sits on the transom) to approx. an inch below the Cavitation Plate.
Once mounted the Engine can then be moved up with a shim between the mount and the Transom
so that the Cavitation Plate is even with the bottom of the Transom.
|Transom Outer Frame|
|It is not mentioned much in the plans. It will require a 1 x 6 about 55 inches long.
I will know exactly once I build the boat. :-)
| The Chines should be beveled to 30 degrees along
one entire side of their length
With regards to the Chines and
Sheer Clamps coming together, I just left them both long, screwed
the Chines to the bottom deck then pulled the Sheer Clamps down
to where they overlapped the Chines. - Jason Culp
|Horizontal Frame Member curves|
The curve on the bottom frame member should be accurately
measured and cut to the specs in the plan, then the bottom deck
is pulled into place. This gets you the right curve and adds rigidity to
the hull - remember this is what they call "stressed hull construction"
which means that the entire boat is pushing and pulling on all its
own parts to make it solid. - Jason Culp
The top curve of the top piece can be derived from the dimensions shown.
The curve on the bottom of the top piece is shown at a 14" radius but it is
not clear where it is taken from. It needs to support the steering board
and match the wheel mounting board. Since the Steering Board is approx. 7 inches wide
I plan to take the radius from 14 inches up the center line.
|Skip Hagerman recommends a gusset to connect the Carlins to the Transom to provide additional Transom support.
|Cutting the Transom 15 degrees |
VERY IMPORTANT - when building the transom cut the 15 degree bevel on the
bottom of the plywood and framing pieces BEFORE you measure and put everything
together - I put it all together first - not only was it next to impossible
to get the whole transom through the table saw smoothly, but I ended up being
just short of 48" across the back, so some creative sanding and epoxy work
was needed to make the transom sides flush to the bottom deck - Jason Culp|
|Steering Board Support|
|Greg Marchand recommends a brace from the steering board frame to the Fore Deck Strut.
This adds support when us big teenagers lean on the wheel.
|Water proofing the cockpit|
|When your boat is coming to a standstill the waves tend to back
wash from the rear so what I did was take a plastic moulding from the
lumber yard and with a heat gun I was able to heat the plastic, which is very
strong and durable, and carefully mould it to the contour of the boat.
I screwed it to the side rails and epoxied all cracks. It makes a great
splash guard and it works well. - Brian Cranfield
|Do I need full size plans|
|This is a very simple boat, many people have build it without full size plans.|
|What does it cost|
|Hard to say as it depends on the materials used,
builders say $300 to $800 + outboard cost|
How long does it take to build
|I'm sure you could
whip one together fairly quickly, especially if you are someone like
John Platou who has all the tools, skills and has built one before
(John says 20 hours), but I'm going on 3 months
keeping at it fairly steady (2-3 nights per week and some weekends).
Most of us are first time boat builders looking for a project and we are going
to be picky and learning along the way. My next one won't take
nearly this long, but I would think still more than 20 hours if
I want a nice boat that is going to last awhile when I'm done.
One of the most time-consuming aspects for me has been second-guessing
the plans - DON'T - all I discovered was that the plans are right.
If you run into a section where you think "no way that is going to fit/work"
just follow the instructions... it will work... really
- Jason Culp
Are special tools needed
|Some of the framing requires ripping its length and/or cutting an angle.
Unless you have it done at a lumber yard you will need a
table saw or radial arm saw to do this - Barry
Tools I consider a must have for construction include; table saw, jig saw,
short hand saw, coping saw and wood rasp with both coarse and fine sides.
The rasp has been indispensable for smoothing board ends, rounding plywood edges,
beveling frame components and doing "bodywork" with the epoxy. There probably
hasn't been a single day of construction I haven't had the rasp in my hand at
some point. -- Jason Culp
|The plan lumber sizes vary from what I can buy|
I ran a whole analysis on stock sizes versus actual dimensions to see
if there would be any measurement issues. I didn't run into any. Basically
if you cut to fit as you go you shouldn't have any issues. There aren't any
dimensions in the plans that are dependent on 1x4 actually being 1x4....
and if you look carefully at the plans most of the components are ripped
down slightly anyways. - Jason Culp
|Which plywood should I use|
|Exterior grade fir plywood is called for
the in the plans and works fine. If it is not available then try marine mahogany plywood.
Its more expensive but its totally waterproof.
|Which framing wood should I use|
|Fir is called for the in the plans and works fine.
I thought because I could not find fir that pine would work however I had read
about its poor nail/screw holding ability and softness. - Barry
With regards to the pine being softer, I agree, however I don't believe it makes
any difference with holding a screw, a nail yes, but I used all screws. Also... little tip, if you are using epoxy to seal the joints, which means
you will have a batch on hand every time you are using screws, dip the screws
into the epoxy before screwing them in. Also, after you have all the screws in
go back and retighten each one by hand, even go over them twice just to be sure.
Pine tends to compress slightly under stress, so a screw that felt tight on the
first go will need a little tweek a few minutes later. -- Jason Culp
|What glue should I use|
|Builders have used
Gorilla glue - Glynn - Description
3M 5200 - John - Description
Power Poxy - Greg - Description
System 3 T88 - Brian - Description
Ignore the article regarding using glue/sawdust.
The gap filling glues and epoxies available today did not exist
when the article was written.
|What paint should I use|
|Everything from a good quality latex exterior house paint
to specialized marine
epoxy paints have been used.
An article on Latex Boat Painting