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Skip Skip Hagerman built a Minimost in 1965.
He did it the hard way, before epoxy, with Weldwood glue.

Click on pictures for larger view

The plans list the old Weld-Wood glue in the materials list, but I think glue technology has changed so much in the last decade, that the newer epoxies are much better. Check out the West System site (http://www.westsystem.com ) for a whole bunch of info on epoxy resin coatings, and Clark Craft ( http://www.clarkcraft.com/epoxyplus.php3 ) has some info on their epoxy coatings and glue. Also, the Glen-L Marine (http://www.glen-l.com ) site has more. Just about any of the current epoxy glues made for wood will work fine.

If you plan on keeping this boat for many years, I'd suggest coating the whole thing with West System epoxy before you paint it. This will encapsulate the wood in plastic and preserve it forever. If this boat is the first of many to come, slop some fiberglass resin on the bottom and in the cockpit and call it good. The rest you can just paint over the bare wood. I would coat these 2 critical areas however. The bottom coating will protect the wood from gouges that happen when beaching or trailering, and more importantly make it go FASTER! The cockpit coating will keep water from soaking into the wood from inside, and it's gonna get wet in there! (note: Its possible that the new Marine Epoxy paints would do the job as well - Barry)

I left the excess bottom planking in place at the transom. I just cut a half circle below the transom to allow the motor to tilt in. This gives you a little extra planning area at the rear allowing the motor to be tilted out farther, which raises the bow, which lifts more of the bottom out of the water, which makes it go faster. Just be sure to seal the edge really well to keep the water from soaking in.

One weak point in the design that I discovered was the upper transom joint where it joins the deck. I think because I started out with a heavy motor, the transom flexed backward separating it from the rear deck. To beef this area up a little, add a gusset to each side of the transom as shown.

I also didn't use the separate dashboard assembly shown in the plans. I just mounted the wheel in a vertical position directly to the frame. It seemed to me that the dash assembly just added a lot of wind drag.

Definitely use fir or spruce for the framing. Pine is very soft and isn't strong enough to keep the screws from pulling out.
-- Skip Hagerman

Now a little secret. Many of you have seen this picture and to quote Skip "The motor is a Mercury Mark 30. It was just set up as a photo-op. Far too much hp. Twenty hp is a handful for this little boat. Mine did almost 40mph with an old beat up 10hp Merc Lightning!"


  Skips Minimost Info on his site

He also has a web site  Antique Boat and Motor Mania